overview for zumlin

Today's mod: KR1 w/ XHP50.3, orange aux, and an Olga optic in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 3 points 1 year ago

Impressive!

Today's mod: KR1 w/ XHP50.3, orange aux, and an Olga optic in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 3 points 1 year ago (2 children)

Wow so shiny. Is that a 3D printed spacer? Did you put it in front of the glass lens?

Copper TS10, 3000k, orange aux with mandatory mod in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 3 points 1 year ago

Yes and no. While you can use the aux in all the strobes with the latest firmware, there are still only 2 brightness levels (a hardware limitation), and not all of them work like you would expect.

At the moment:

You cannot ramp up and down, there is only a high mode
Candl mode and biker strobe are just constantly on in high mode and the brightness cannot be changed
Party strobe (low mode) and tactical strobe (high mode) work
Lightning mode partially works (alternates between off and high mode at random intervals)

Copper TS10, 3000k, orange aux with mandatory mod in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 1 points 1 year ago

Yes I have installed the new multi-channel branch on all my TS10s. I suppose if you want to use the aux as a channel then you could prefer it to be brighter.

For myself, my aux leds are in high mode when in standby, and go to low mode when auto-lockout kicks in.

Copper TS10, 3000k, orange aux with mandatory mod in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 5 points 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) (1 children)

I use two pairs of vice grip pliers, one on the head and one on the bezel, with some leather to protect the finish. Heating the bezel up by dipping it in some freshly boiled water should make it easier.

Using this method I have removed many bezels (TS10/SP10 Pro/FW1A Pro) uneventfully. Removing the tail is another story though, because the leather just keeps slipping on the smooth parts of the tube/tail.

23

Copper TS10, 3000k, orange aux with mandatory mod (lemmy.world)

submitted 1 year ago by zumlin to c/flashlight

10 comments fedilink

I received this copper TS10 a few days ago and I finally got some time to do that mod that I also do when I receive a TS10.

When shipped, the aux leds (regardless of colour) are always too bright and drain the battery too fast for my liking.

For the orange aux, I added a 510Ω resistor, which dims it down to a comfortable brightness IMO. I don't have the numbers right now but the battery will also last much longer in high mode. Here are some pictures to show the difference.

High mode: left - no resistor added, right - 510Ω resistor added

Low mode: left - no resistor added, right - 510Ω resistor added

High mode after modding: 510Ω resistors added to both lights, much better

1000 subscriber giveaway in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 5 points 1 year ago

I am in! Thanks

Purple 💜 in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 1 points 1 year ago

When they are not lit, do they look clear or orange/yellow? I have some near-UV ones as well, they have very high Vf and look clear, while my pink and purple ones look orange/yellow when they are not lit.

14

New spacer for my FW1Aspheric (lemmy.world)

submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by zumlin to c/flashlight

3 comments fedilink

I printed a new spacer for my FW1Aspheric to project the internals onto the wall lol.

Video

FW1Aspheric in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 3 points 1 year ago

Thanks. This is my first time trying it and I like the tint. Have you tried the warm one before? I also got one in cool white which is quite green and disgusting.

FW1Aspheric in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 2 points 1 year ago

Thanks, and I am jealous of your pcb designing skills, I want to learn that one day.

FW1Aspheric in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 3 points 1 year ago

Thank you. I hope so too, and high CRI!

I just saw this posted over at BLF (credits go to koef3 and Simon from Convoy).

The tint of that sample is at or above BBL. Fingers crossed for some rosy ones when they are actually released. Though I would not use an apheric lens to make a square beam out of one. And the reflector options for 5050 LEDS in the FW1A mean that it won't be as throwy as a CULPM1 in a smooth reflector.

FW1Aspheric in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 3 points 1 year ago

The KR1 SFT40 still has a bit more candela. The hotspots are similar in size but the Yinding has much less spill.

FW1Aspheric in c/flashlight

[–] zumlin 5 points 1 year ago

Thanks man, you inspire me to do these kind of mods. And of course, it would not have been possible without the adapter you designed.

29

FW1Aspheric (lemmy.world)

submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by zumlin to c/flashlight

15 comments fedilink

It took me a while but I finally completed this mod, which started out as a FW1A Pro. This is what I did:

FET+7+1 driver upgraded to T1616 with aux support
Orange, green and purple aux
Yinding 5050 3000k emitter (warm and rosy, CRI > 70)
3D printed spacer (white PETG)
Aspheric lens

I am getting around 76000cd at turn on, which is very similar to what the Bean Master got with a CULPM1 and a smooth reflector. But remember this Yinding is 3000k and rosy with a duv of -0.0075, and I think this makes it very impressive.

The main reason why I used an aspheric lens is because I needed aux, and suitable TIRs are just not throwy enough. I would also like to try to put those tiny RGB aux leds between the emitter and a reflector in the future. Enjoy the photos (sorry that most of them are in the wrong orientation, I uploaded them with my phone and I don't think they let me set the orientation)

The driver

All wired up

Orange, green, purple aux

Moonlight

With spacer

With aspheric

FW1-Aspheric vs KR1 SFT40 from 5 meters away

Looking into the lens

26

New Aspheric/Optic/Emitter Day, Yinding 5050 3000k for the FW1A (lemmy.world)

submitted 1 year ago* (last edited 1 year ago) by zumlin to c/flashlight

11 comments fedilink

Hey all is my first post here and it looks like the main photo and a couple other photos below are not in the correct orientation.

I just got some new parts in to build a couple of throwy FW1A with aux (still waiting for the aux boards from OshPark). I got several different aspheric lenses, TIR optics that have been recommended in the past and the round-die Yinding 5050 emitter in 3000k (See the Opple 3 data below).

Still got some work to do as I need to work out which aspheric to use and the correct focal length which gives the most throw. After that I need to design a 3D printed spacer for the aspheric to sit on.

Edit: I like this emitter already, throwy (small emitting surface), warm (3000k), rosy (duv -0.0025!), and CRI not that bad! It is supposed to take up to around 8A of current I think.